Fine wines are the calling card of restaurants, but an original, surprising offering at fair prices is more important than an extensively-stocked cellar, wine expert Peter Keller writes. He reveals his seven Zurich favorites.
Some restaurants pay scant attention to their wine selection: wine aficionados rightly expect a wider by-the-glass selection than just Dôle und Valpolicella – while these two favorites always sell well, more originality wouldn't hurt.
Countless restauranteurs have caught the wine bug and built up an impressive and surprising offering. I compiled by seven favorites in and around Zurich – including one in Opfikon, just outside city limits.
1. Restaurant Mesa
Owner Linda Muehlemann is a big fan of wine – that's immediately obvious from Mesa's wine list. The expansive selection focuses on Old World wines, and France in particular.
Bordeaux wines are pricier by nature, but an Hermitage 2006 from Yann Chave from the Rhône region priced at 135 Swiss francs ($150) is a good alternative. Swiss wines are represented by Neuchâtel's Maison Carrée with a Pinot Noir Hauterive 2015 at 82 francs.
Fans of Italian and Spanish wines as well as Riesling lovers will also find good choices – don't miss the fresh, mineral 2016 Riesling Hoellenpfad by Doennhoff (78 francs). www.mesa-restaurant.ch
2. Wirtschaft zum Neumarkt
The old-town restaurant not only has beautiful garden seating but is also a partner of Mémoire des Vins Suisses, an association of 60 of Switzerland's best vintners. Domestic gems like a brilliant 2009 Syrah 2009 by Denis Mercier of Valais (96 francs) are given a lot of room on Neumarkt's wine list.
Not just Mercier's Syrah but also other very mature wines are on offer here – and at rather sensible prices. A Pinot Noir made by Daniel und Martha Gantenbein from Flaesch is unbeatable at 120 francs.
The domestic offerings are rounded out by European finds such as the 2015 Gruene Veltliner Ried Lamm made by Birgit Eichinger from Austria's Kamptal (69 francs) and a Château Phélan-Ségur 2010 from Bordeaux (97 francs). www.wirtschaft-neumarkt.ch
3. Restaurant Rechberg 1837
A stone's throw from Neumarkt, Rechberg 1837 is a charming restaurant which only serves Swiss names, from all six winemaking regions. It puts particular emphasis on Zurich – from a lakeside Barbera to a traditional Pinot Noir. Local names like Schwarzenbach in Meilen, Pircher of Eglisau, or Besson-Strasser from Uhwiesen are on offer, as well as wine from Thurgau's Schloss Bachtobel or Anne-Claire Schott on Lake Bienne, who also produces natural wines. Prices are fair. www.rechberg1837.com
4. Restaurant zum alten Loewen
This Kreis 6 neighborhood bistro is a find for wine lovers: host Maria Lutz-Burri loves Bordeaux wines. The selection is phenomenal – at moderate prices. For example, a 2009 Château Poujeaux from Moulis (98 francs), or a 2005 Domaine de Chevalier from Pessac-Léognan (130 francs). Lutz-Burri stocks roughly 200 different positions.
For whites, look to a 2016 Domaine de Ravoire blanc from Valais, a sophisticated assembly of Petite Arvine, Ermitage, and Pinot blanc (71 francs), while for reds a 2014 Tuscan Cepparello from Isole e Olena costs 98 francs. Fourteen wines are available by the glass – the only fly in the ointment is the absence of any German producers. www.altenloewen.ch
5. Restaurant Bue’s
Host Joerg Buehler, who lends his name to «Bue's», reveres wine and usually has a good story for each of the ones he stocks – and with more than 700, you're spoiled for choice.
That makes my recommendations, which won't include any big names (which Bue's does offer), highly subjective. A 2017 Merlot La Fiducia from Misox by vineyard Rohner Erni (69 francs) is a revelation. A 2009 Chianti Classico from Tuscan organic vineyard Le Cinciole (59 francs) is also remarkable.
Australia pitches in excellent Syrah, like a 2010 The Dead Arm Shiraz from D’Arenberg of McLaren Vale for 120 francs. If you're overwhelmed by the embarrassment of riches, the host is happy to help. www.buetique.ch
6. Restaurant Isebaehnli
This unique old-town place is best known for its tiny seating area and huge wine selection, which includes countless gems. A wine guide once wrote that guests should know going in that Isebaehnli doesn't sell any affordable bottles, and that this isn't the place for everyday wines – how true!
Selection rotates monthly, and three names stand out in the current list: a 2012 Chassagne-Montrachet En Ancegnières by Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey (170 francs, also by the glass), which is among my favorite white Burgundy wines. The mature Sammarco 2006 by Castello di Rampolla is a divine union of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Sangiovese (140 francs). Rioja lovers shouldn't miss a 904 Gran Reserva from Bodegas La Rioja Alta (2001), priced at 105 francs. www.isebaehnli.com
7. Restaurant Wunderbrunnen, Opfikon
The «Wunderbrunnen,» which translates to fountain of wonders, is heaven on earth for wine lovers: the list is a veritable bible of an incredible 4,000 different wines from around the world. The restaurant offers countless older but still affordable Bordeaux and Burgundies.
For white, I'd recommend a 2008 Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru Combettes from top producer Carillon for 94 francs, and for red the excellent 2000 Château Sociando-Mallet from Bordeaux, for 116 francs.
The restaurant serves no less than 150 wines by the glass – thanks to the Coravin, which pours wine without removing the cork from the bottle. www.wunderbrunnen.ch
Peter Keller is a wine curator and journalist for Swiss weekly «NZZ am Sonntag»
