A wine list designed to satisfy regular customers as well as draw in new business sets restaurants apart, wine expert Peter Keller writes. He reveals his seven favorites in the Swiss capital.
What makes a good wine cellar: the widest possible selection, or a breathtaking depth of certain wines of a particular vintage? An appealing selection of wines available by the glass?
The answer is probably a little bit of all, as well as how the restaurant positions itself. It is less the number of wines and more about how carefully a restaurant has compiled its selection – as well as how reasonably it prices the offerings.
After grazing Zurich's restaurants for the best wine selection, we looked at Bern's most attractive wine menus – there should be something for everyone in the selection.
1. Casino Bern
The restaurant wins points for an attractive and varied selection of old world wines – diners won't find anything from Australia, California, or Chile here. Casino stands out in several ways: it stocks a wide offering of bubbly; focuses on Swiss wines in a mix of newer and more established vineyards; wines of various vintages (like six different years of the hugely popular Cornalin, by Anne-Catherine and Denis Mercier); excellent Bordeaux region wines; more than 20 wines available by the glass; and a small, exclusive selection of so-called orange wine (white grapes subjected to mash fermentation).
The guest is spoilt for choice here: for white, I'd recommend the 2014 Petit Chablis from the enormously popular French producer Ravenau at 105 Swiss francs ($115 million). For red, the 2016 Spatburgunder Alte Reben from leading German producer Bernhard Huber (92 francs). www.casinobern.ch
2. Wein & Sein
Daniela Jaun and Simon Sommer, Wein und Sein (Image: Franziska Scheidegger)
The wine list is put together with passion, true to the inn's hospitality motto. The hosts concentrate on a few names from every European region. The offering is never overwhelming but manages to serve up something for every taste – at reasonable prices.
The evening starts off well with a Lake Bienne speciality: Anne-Claire Schott presses natural wine with such liveliness and vigor that the 2016 white vintage reaps six varietals (88 francs). For less adventurous palates, the 2016 Gruene Veltliner made byFred Loimer in Kamptal, Austria (62 francs) is a safe bet.
With the main course, either a powerful 2015 Barolo Classico 2015 made by Andrea Oberto (85 france) or the nuanced 2011 Blaufraenkisch Altenberg from Paul Achs in Austria's Burgenland (105 francs) suits well. www.weinundsein.ch
3. Restaurant Schoengruen, inside Zentrum Paul Klee
A Valais Chenin blanc, or how about a Chardonnay from the less well-known French Jura? A Piedmont red? The Schoengruen's wine list reveals countless off-the-beaten-track jewels.
Such finds make the selection more intense – after all, who wants to drink the same thing on a night out as they have supping at home? Of course guests can take the safe bet in this restaurant, which offers an excellent selection, like the ubiquitous Aalto from Ribera del Duero (95 francs for the 2016 vintage) or Ticino's most marketable wine, Quattromani 2015 (135 francs).
There is no shortage of noble names either: the «uber» Tsucan Sassicaia costs 250 francs for a 2007 vintage, the famous Château Cheval-Blanc from Bordeaux runs 580 francs – nearly a bargain for that year. At 95 francs, the 2008 Château de Pez is reasonable and excellent, while lovers of sweet wines can indulge in the highly-sought-after Grain Noble Marsanne Blanche made by Valais winemaker Marie-Théres Chappaz (142 francs for 500 ml). www.restaurants-schoengruen.ch
4. Restaurant Haberbueni
There are vintners popular the world over: often the hype is overblown, but sometimes it is warranted. The iconic Burgundy Coche-Dury is one of them, but it is pricey. Haberbueni offers 2008 and 2010 Bourgogne Chardonnay for 190 francs, which is somewhat reasonable (remember that this represents the lowest level of classification in the Burgundy system).
There's plenty more on offer, including a phenomenal selection of French wines like a brilliant 2014 St. Aubin En Remilly 1er Cru 2014 made by Pierre Yves Colin-Morey (96 francs). A wide selection of reds makes choosing one harder: a 2006 Crozes-Hermitage Clos des Grives from Domaine Combier from the Rhone region for 75 francs, or a eminently affordable 2000 Château Le Bosq. The Cru bourgeois from a notable year costs 76 francs. La Grande Nation aside, lovers of Swiss and Italian wines will also be pleased with the selection here. www.haberbueni.ch
5. Restaurant Mille Sens
The «Thousand Senses» menu starts with gems and a single-bottle list. If not a Krug champagne (500 francs), the 2011 red Cuvée Steinzeiler 2011 from Burgenland's Kollwentz, made up of Blaufraenkisch, Zweigelt, and Cabernet Sauvignon, is a more than acceptable alternative (128 francs).
Groups of four could plump for a 2010 magnum of top Ticino Merlot 2010 made by Daniel Huber, at a reasonable 198 francs. The «regular» wine menu with a manageable selection offers up several enjoyable finds. A 2017 Chasselas Nuit blanche from Lake Morat's Domaine Chervet (42.50 francs), an 2018 Dézaley La Médinette from Vaud's Louis Bovard, also made with Chasselas grapes (68 francs).
The reds are less well-known: guests won't go wrong with a 2016 Tuscan Le Serre Nuove 2016. A second-wine from Ornellaia is attractive priced (104.50 francs). www.millesens.ch
6. Kloesterli Weincafé
The wine menu is very individualistic and miles from the oenological mainstream: the cafe begins with a segment called «wines we enjoy,» which lists staff favorites.
Guests have two choices: trust the servers or discover their own favorites. Though the selection isn't too vast, choosing isn't easy because the cafe stocks countless hidden gems. My suggestions are a 2017 Petit Clos 2017 made by the famous organic Domaine La Colombe in Féchy, Vaud, which represents a fresh and mineral Chasselas with a small price tag (52 francs).
For Burgundy, a 2012 Viré-Classé made by Héritiers du Comte Lafon (79 francs) is a top choice. Italian names stand out: an 2017 Il Frappato made by Arianna Occhipinti of Sicily stands out as fresh, elegant, with depth, and exciting. Her wines are produced as naturally as possible. www.kloesterlibern.ch
7. Restaurant Toi et moi
The restaurant was recently awarded five stars by a Swiss wine publication and the country's sommelier association. Toi et moi, part of the wider Remimag group, indeed stocks an extensive offering or old and new world wines. It also differentiates between dine-in and take-away prices.
Sauvignon blancs that made New Zealand famous are represented well: an 2018 Cloudy Bay is priced at 77 francs, while other whites include a powerful and aromatic 2011 Australian Plexus made by John Duval (57 francs). The combination of Grenache, Mourvèdre, and Shiraz is akin to a southern French wine.
Europeans are also prominent: I was seduced by a 2012 Ticino Merlot Balin made by Cantina Kopp of Crone Visini (92 francs), a mature 2007 Bordeaux Château Sociando-Mallet (98 francs) and for special occasions, an 2015 Tuscan Pergole Torte from top vintner Monte Vertine (134 francs). www.toietmoi.ch
