Cocktail of the Month: A Summer Drink for That One Particular Hour

Summer on the Mediterranean is perfect, even through the current heat wave. In the evening a light breeze off the sea cools the air and turns it pleasantly silky. The light softens, and during the blue hour the outlines of sky and sea blur into one. Just the right moment to usher in the evening.

On the table sits a bowl of olives, almonds, bread and small bites of cheese. The natural match is a light cocktail with subtle bitter notes. With the White Port Bitter Lemon Highball, we hit those wishes squarely on the mark.

White Port Gets an Edge

White port is often known in its classic role: neat and well chilled, or, for a few years now, as a Porto Tonic. The latter is a refreshing long drink for the aperitif hour or the summer terrace.

But with bitter lemon, white port takes on a slightly drier, more citrusy character. That makes it a touch less obliging, and for me far more interesting.

White Port Bitter Lemon Highball

The drink opens with that bright, gently sweet fruit note of white port. Depending on the style, it recalls white peaches, citrus zest, dried blossoms or a hint of honey. A little dry vermouth joins in and steers the drink in a more grown-up direction: herbs, wormwood and a touch of spice.

Fresh lemon juice opens things up, and a splash of bitter lemon finishes the build. It gives the long drink a lovely freshness and a lightly quinine-tinged grip.

Not Just Any Filler

Here, Kinley Bitter Lemon is far more than a filler. It's the citrus-bitter axis of the drink. It strips the sweetness from the white port, lifts the citrus notes and draws out the herbs of the vermouth. That is how a simple highball becomes a wonderful aperitif.

I like drinks like this because they get by with only a few ingredients, and yet the balance still has to be right. A good glass, plenty of quality ice and well-chilled ingredients are the backbone of a perfect summer drink.

The Moment Before Dinner

For me, the White Port Bitter Lemon Highball is a perfect fit for that before-dinner moment. When you're still working in the kitchen, the guests are slowly arriving and the first olives are on the table, you want a drink that whets the appetite. It's great with roasted almonds, crostini, a little aged cheese, or even salty chips. It has enough aromatic substance, yet stays light enough that the first glass doesn't become the last of the evening.

Above all, temperature matters. The white port should be well chilled, and so should the Kinley Bitter Lemon. Fill the glass generously with ice. A twist of lemon zest is all the garnish you need. For a drier edge, use grapefruit. For more of a Mediterranean mood, add a small sprig of rosemary, used sparingly, so the herbs accompany the drink rather than dominate it.

Recipe: White Port Bitter Lemon Highball

Ingredients

… 5 cl white port
… 1.5 cl dry vermouth
… 1 cl fresh lemon juice
… 8–10 cl Kinley Bitter Lemon
… 1 dash orange bitters, optional
… lemon zest
… ice cubes

Preparation

Fill a highball glass generously with ice. Add white port, dry vermouth, lemon juice and, optionally, orange bitters. Stir briefly. Top up with well-chilled Kinley Bitter Lemon from the Coca-Cola universe and integrate gently. Garnish with a twist of lemon zest.

Character: fresh, citrusy, lightly bitter, herbal, aperitif-style
Occasion: aperitif, summer evening, the opening act of a menu
Glass: highball

Simple Recipes Aren't Automatically Simplistic

For me, this drink is a good example of why simple recipes don't have to be simplistic. White port, vermouth, lemon and Kinley Bitter Lemon: that's all it takes, as long as the proportions are right. What ends up in the glass is an aperitif that has freshness, shows structure and still stays completely uncomplicated.

Or, to put it another way: a drink you mix once, and then ask yourself why you underrated bitter lemon for so long.

Peter Jauch is…

… a spirits sommelier with a penchant for high-end cocktails, often pairing them with fine food.
… author of coffee-table books on gin & champagne.
… an experienced spirits and champagne tasting host.
… co-organizer of an experiential festival together with friends.