As a newcomer to the «Watches & Wonders» fair, Geneva-based «Raymond Weil» had its booth located on the periphery of the fairgrounds. However, in terms of interest by industry insiders and journalists, it could certainly compete with the big players. This is also due to the charismatic Elie Bernheim, the youthful CEO who leads the family company in the third generation. In an interview with finews.com in Geneva, he explains the neo-vintage philosophy and explains why he is optimistic about the outlook for the industry – and what makes his company unique as an independent family business, a rarity in the Swiss watchmaking landscape.
Among the premium watch brands in the entry-level segment, «Raymond Weil» embodies a strong affinity for the fine arts, particularly music. Their collections bear names such as «Tango», «Toccata», or «Maestro.» For the first time, the brand, under CEO Elie Bernheim, is participating in the Geneva watch fair.
Mr. Bernheim, your brand is presenting its debut at «Watches & Wonders». What overarching message do you intend to convey to the watch world?
We are honored and proud to participate in this fair, which stands as a pinnacle event within the industry. Situated in Geneva, our brand's home, the decision to partake was natural.
«Raymond Weil»’s absence from the first two editions of the fair was noted.
The inaugural edition in 2022 coincided closely with the offset of the COVID-19 pandemic, a period marked by uncertainty regarding the endurance of traditional fair concepts. Subsequently, recognizing the irreplaceable value of human interaction and face-to-face dialogue, my resolve to participate solidified. Regrettably, logistical constraints precluded our involvement in the 2023 iteration. However, with the third edition, we seized the opportunity to affirm our presence.
Does this participation signal a new chapter of ambition for your brand?
Rather a continuous ambition. Already at the previous «Baselworld» fair, we underscored our commitment with a very large booth over many years.
Regarding product emphasis, which model from your collection holds precedence?
Our «Millesime» collection commands attention as our latest artisanal endeavor. Launched to acclaim last year, its recognition with the «Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG)» prize in the Challenge category — celebrating watches below 2,000 Swiss francs—was a crowning achievement. Spanning a price range of 1000 to 4000 Swiss francs, with an average hovering around 2000 Swiss francs, this accolade resonated deeply with who we are as a brand.
«Testament to our commitment to innovation within the realm of neo-vintage aesthetics»
Furthermore, we have expanded the collection this year, introducing diverse variations and complications, including a new moon phase and a 39-millimeter chronograph — a testament to our commitment to innovation within the realm of neo-vintage aesthetics.
Could you elaborate on the concept of neo-vintage?
Neo-vintage encapsulates a harmonious fusion of traditional horological codes within a contemporary framework. Drawing inspiration from the iconic styles of the 1950s and 1960s, our interpretation breathes new life into these timeless designs, imbuing them with a modern sensibility.
For clientele within the finance industry, which models from your collection would you recommend?
Presently, the «Millesime» collection stands as a paragon of versatility and sophistication, catering to discerning tastes across genders. Offering an expansive array of sizes and complications — ranging from 35 to 39 millimeters — this collection epitomizes refinement and elegance, making it very suited for the Swiss market, and for professionals within the finance sector.
Reflecting on your journey as a family-owned watch brand, how do you perceive your current position?
With an annual production volume of 80,000 units, we take pride in our stature. Operating free from the constraints of stock market pressures affords us the autonomy to navigate strategic decisions with a long-term perspective. While larger conglomerates may boast synergies, we have other advantages.
Could you delineate the company's evolution in recent years?
Throughout 2021 to 2023, we experienced consistent growth, with the first quarter of 2024 signaling continued momentum. Notably, our stronghold in the US market with its resilient economy, has bolstered our performance.
«Our stronghold in the US market has bolstered our performance»
Unlike some peers, we weathered the challenges posed by fluctuations in the Chinese market.
With the current industry sentiment in mind, how do you perceive the road ahead?
Indeed, various factors — including interest rate dynamics, currency fluctuations, and geopolitical uncertainties — bear influence on industry sentiment. While recent years have been marked by exceptional growth, I am approaching the future with cautious optimism. A potential consolidation phase, although perhaps viewed unfavorably in certain quarters, could offer strategic advantages in the long run.
Prize-winning: «Millesime» by Raymond Weil. (Image: courtesy)
Finally, what pivotal lesson have you leaned from your father?
The guiding principle instilled by my father and also my grandfather, Raymond Weil, revolves around prudent risk assessment and ensuring a tangible return on investment. Every decision is scrutinized through the lens of long-term viability, reflecting our commitment to legacy and generational continuity. I want to be the one who will pass the baton to the next generation. I'm just here as the third one. I want a fourth one.
Elie Bernheim is the grandson of Raymond Weil, the eponymous founder of the watch brand bearing his name. In 2014, Mr. Bernheim took the helm of the family company from his father, Olivier Bernheim, as CEO. Graduating from the prestigious «EHL Hospitality Business School» in 2006, Elie Bernheim has been a pivotal figure in ensuring the continuity of the brand's heritage. While analytical and pragmatic, Mr. Bernheim embodies the family tradition of passion for arts and music, which is also evident in «Raymond Weil»'s brand's product development and marketing. The business magazine «BILANZ» estimates the net-worth of the Bernheim family, stemming from its watchmaking company, to range between 200 and 300 million Swiss Francs.
