Before St.Moritz, there was Engelberg. In the 1920s, this was where Europe's gilded set came to ski badly and dress beautifully. The top destination: little Versailles, a palace tucked in the heart of Engelberg run by the Catani family. A century later, the Palace still stands. Today, as the Kempinski Palace Engelberg.

Arrival Between Mountains and Blossoms

I arrive in late spring. The mountain town sits between the Titlis and Hahnen. Crocus blankets, blooming meadows that look star-studded, a humble wooden hut, and the resurrection of a feeling that only the Alps can evoke: I imagine it’s something similar to what Julie Andrews felt when she once sang «The hills are alive» in The Sound of Music. Similarly to the movie, Engelberg evolved around the life of an abbey and bears a naive charm.

The hotel lies nestled between Titlis and Hahnen. (Image: Kempinski Palace Engelberg)

Belle Époque Grandeur

At its centre is the grand hotel, which has aged with confidence rather than desperation. It has the soul of old-world grandeur and the cool of modern luxury. The bones are Belle Époque: a sweeping marble staircase, a ballroom graced by the Lucerne Symphonie Orchestra every summer, ceilings that demand a tilted neck, and ornate plasterwork detailed with almost impossible patience.

On arrival, I’m greeted with fresh strawberries and gentle macaroons engraved with the Kempinski emblem. The suites are spacious and luxurious, the bathroom floors heated in elegant black stone. I walk barefoot for the next three days.

Luxury with a View

Of course, all rooms have balconies, where visitors drink champagne on sheep rugs. Some rooms are equipped with golden telescopes. Others have a truly unique offering: in the Park Suites, you can watch the FIS Ski Jumping World Cup directly from your balcony every December. 

Spacious and luxurious suites — some equipped with golden telescopes. (Image: Kempinski Palace Engelberg)

Heated floors made of elegant black stone. (Image: Kempinski Palace Engelberg)

It’s worth mentioning that these might become Olympic seats. After all, Engelberg has been named as the Swiss bid for the 2038 Winter Games in ski jumping, cross-country skiing and Nordic combined.

The Palace Bar

The bar room, in dark wood, is a moody lounge space with exotic drinks. It feels lost in time in its vintage originality. The Palace Bar itself is a golden half moon, marbled like the face of Jupiter.

On winter nights, this is where guests, skis over shoulder, dusted in snow, bustle in after carving pistes before settling into a coveted seat by the blazing fire. I linger over tangy lemony caviar tagliatelle and brisk white wine. Later, an experimental new dish: a trio of creme brûlée that includes matcha and brownie flavours.

Palace Bar (Image: Kempinski Palace Engelberg)

The Spa

Before breakfast, the following day I visit the spa: a temple in sleek black marble. Its morning and the water is dark sapphire. The infinity pool looks out onto a panorama. The scenery is cinematic: a majestic mountain face with snowy allure, its reflection eclipses the water. There’s something rejuvenating swimming laps in the light. A luxurious indoor jacuzzi overlooks the peaks and completes the experience with warm water set against vast alpine silence.

The spa treatments are, of course, a must.

(Image: Kempinski Palace Engelberg)

Therapies include an icelandic algae detox, alpine herbal vitality rituals, hot stone massage, and many more.

Naturally, there is also a Finnish sauna and organic aroma steam rooms.

Wild Romance

At the Kempinski Engelberg, there are numerous trails for visitors to explore. In summer, guests drive up winding roads and cross wild gorges. As a nature lover, I naturally follow into the surrounding terrain. The wild unfurls verdant: Dramatic valleys, thicket, majestic evergreens.

The hike from Wagenleis to Lachengrätls has clouds rising like steam, through green lush mountain tops, that look prehistoric. The Aaschlucht offers a bridge that looks like a faery bridge from Scotland over an aquamarine river. A little closer is the Trübsee circular hike, followed by the waterfall loop. For food connoisseurs, there is also an alpine cheese trail.

The Magic of the Alps

With all the wild beauty, it’s hard to imagine the real magic comes in winter, when skiers cut through hidden powder pockets. Of course, the Kempinski offers a full range winter sport portfolio ranging from the classic ski to ice fishing and snowshoeing.

A speciality the hotel offers is a hike to its new Frutt Mountain Resort, where the hoteliers personally deliver the baggage for an overnight stay.

Breathtaking views across the Alps. (Image: Kempinski Palace Engelberg)

The New Titlis

It’s also worth mentioning that the Titlis will soon have a new peak station worth visiting. The new glass, geometric structure at 3,000 metres will offer fine dining and spectacular views. From there, visitors will be able to cross a cliff walk across Europe’s highest suspension bridge and continue to the Ice Flyer glacier chairlift. The experience also includes a descent into a 5,000-year-old turquoise glacier cave.

The Catani Restaurant

The cuisine at the Engelberg Kempinski is art directed. The new Greek native, Stefanos Ioannidis, is directing the hotel’s kitchen with exceptional creativity and flavour. There is an emphasis on using local produce, but the menu visits all corners of the world. I am served a beautiful assembly of beets and tender shoots on a bed of local Odermatt goat’s cheese. The dish is traced with oak honey and almost looks floral.

Catani Restaurant (Image: Kempinksi Palace Engelberg)

From Lobster to Pavlova

Later, a lobster bisque with summer truffle, crowned with an ornate lobster tuille. Dessert arrives as a strawberry, Grand Marnier, and orange pavlova that looks like an tiny architectural sculpture.

The restaurant itself is modern and softened with indoor cherry blossom trees. Exceptionally, the Catani has its own local winemaker and reveals its new collection seasonally.

Before I leave the hotel, I am urged to visit the abbey. The Benedictine monastery is heart stopping and a joy for the eyes. As I make my way through its large doors, a woman gifts me pearly rosary for protection. I suspect I don’t need it. At the Kempinski Palace Engelberg, I may have already found heaven.